Phase Perfect and Air Dryer mount location and another damn Hurricane

October 7, 2020, 8:53 pm

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I got a call from the riggers yesterday and machine will be delivered Monday or Tuesday.
In the mean time Im trying to figure out where the best locations would be to mount my homemade twin tower desiccant air dryer and the phase perfect and I would like to get y’all’s experienced suggestions.

In the picture you will see the dryer and where I plan on hanging it and the PP will be going to the left near the column right above the aluminum square tubing that is standing up beneath the girt. The mill will be centered between them two columns. Do these locations look good or would you do it another way?

The PP, is it okay for to be located with about 30’ of wiring in between the panel and it or should it be mounted next to the main power panel?

Does it really matter where it’s located as long as the wire size i sufficiently sized? I’m going to run 1/0 from to panel to converter and even thought about 1/0 or at the smallest #2 from the converter to the 3 phase breaker panel or fused disconnect and same to mill. Does that sound good? I’ve read too many stories of voltage drops and wire size being the majority of the culprits. I’d rather go overkill and be good vs not enough and end up costing more.

PS F:;k these hurricanes!

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packing a used VF3 for transport

October 7, 2020, 9:24 pm

≫ Next: What are the plugs on either side of the spindle?

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I'm packing up a VF3 I won on auction and I was wondering which hole on the z axis the anchor plate bolts into. Also there was some L brackets, but I'm not sure where those came from. Any other words of advice would be great. Also, how is the controller strapped back?

Thanks

What are the plugs on either side of the spindle?

October 8, 2020, 9:06 pm

≫ Next: Mini Mill, loud clunk homing Z, slow tool release

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Just wondering what the 2 1/2-13 plugs, one on either side of the spindle are for. This is on a 2012 vf3.

Mini Mill, loud clunk homing Z, slow tool release

October 10, 2020, 5:44 am

≫ Next: VF0 fault 102

≪ Previous: What are the plugs on either side of the spindle?

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Just thought to share - 2007 Mini Mill.
At my paying workplace for some time when homing on the Z axis there was a loud clunk. Since we run a *RTR maintenance program and their were no other issues I ignored it. Fast forward a over a year later and the machine is suffering a slow tool release.

How are these related you quip - they are not, but! Having learned the humphrey valve can become sticky over time and cause this. I had two spare of this $5.85 part on hand for my personal machine. Not being your typical government employee I brought this part in next day.

I pulled the covers and repaired the valve. In reassembling the cover I used what management told me my "unnecessary principals" to scan and prod for any other issues. I secured some of the excess cabling Haas donates to each build and checked for chafing of wires and tubing. Inspected the spindle encoder.

Oh look, the Z axis limit proximity switch screws are nearly fallen out and the sensor is out of position so the the travel is further than it should be. Two drops of blue loctite, 3mm hex key. Covers back on, clean and install the fan.

Nice smooth tool release, no clunk on Z home. Back to whittling!

Note - I reset home Z and all tooling. I presumed there would be a difference. I did not pay attention to the numbers so I can't say it was needed. It most certainly did not hurt.


*RTR - Run To Refusal

VF0 fault 102

October 10, 2020, 12:41 pm

≫ Next: help with work offsets

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I bought this machine for very cheap from a company I had completed my apprenticeship with.
I recently powered it up for the first time after months of slowly fixing things on the machine.
A number of faults came up.

124 low battery
102 servos off
138 A motor over heat

I have fixed the low battery and have sorted the A motor fault.
The servo problem though is still an issue. Powered it up today and that fault and an X axis over current fault. I wanted to know if this X axis fault is causing the 102 servo fault?
The X axis servo is the only one on the machine I have not checked.
Any help would be appreciated
Thank you

help with work offsets

October 10, 2020, 8:41 pm

≫ Next: Opening a Haas spindle core from 2013 mini mill

≪ Previous: VF0 fault 102

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I just got a mini mill and I have been trying to set my work and tool offsets so I can make a test part. I will apologize in advance as this is probably a common issue. I have looked online and I cant find an answer.

I started by touching off all my tools on a pre setter (no probe). All the numbers were negative and seemed accurate relative to one another.

I then set my G54 work offset on a 123 block so I could test my offset numbers. As per Haas' video I ran the following in MDI:
G54 G00 G90 X0 Y0
G43 H05 Z0.1
M30

I got error 316 (over travel range)this error was for the z axis. the first line runs fine and the table travels to G54 x0 y0 properly.

The z command is when the error happens.

I tried placing a tool well above the table and setting the tool length. The machine coordinate was -6.6600. I did the same for the z value of G54 and the value was also -6.6600.

When I run the MDI program I still get this error even if I set the z value to zero. Also, my distance to go screen is confusing me. when the tool ang G54 are in the same place I have a G54 distance to go of 1.74". I would assume it should be zero if the two values are set without moving any axis.

I feel there must be something simple I am missing about the overall process. I have watched all the Haas videos I can find and I am not sure what I am doing wrong.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Opening a Haas spindle core from 2013 mini mill

October 11, 2020, 10:34 am

≫ Next: Alarm 880 under voltage on 160 volt DC Bus at tool change

≪ Previous: help with work offsets

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Anyone know how to open up the spindle core from a 2013, belt driven, Haas mini mill 2? I made a pin wrench to remove the brass piece but can't seem to get it to budge. Might need to make a more rigid pin wrench I'm assuming. If any one has done this or knows how to please let me know. Thank you

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Alarm 880 under voltage on 160 volt DC Bus at tool change

October 11, 2020, 12:22 pm

≫ Next: Greasy residue on newer HAAS way covers

≪ Previous: Opening a Haas spindle core from 2013 mini mill

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My mini mill has started giving me an alarm 880 "under voltage on DC bus" upon attempting tool change. the tool changer slides to the out position and the prox bit changes as it should but alarm 880 stops the process. I can recover the tool changer and the home prox sensor bit also changes as it should. I've swapped out the main 320v power supply and the 115v power supply, not sure where the 160v is generated from must be I/O board? Anything I can find online regarding this points to Vector drive which a minimill does not have. I've verified the vector drive and power supply parameters are correct. Not sure where to go from here other than replacing the I/O board? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

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Greasy residue on newer HAAS way covers

October 12, 2020, 12:34 pm

≫ Next: Changing belt on 2004 tm1

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I have a March 2020 HAAS DM1 mill that from day one has always gotten a very light, greasy residue on the Y way covers. It comes on the movable covers that have the wipers and also the stationary cover that bolts to the table. I don't notice it on the X covers.

I also have a 2016 VF3 and this machine has never had this issue. Both machines cut the same materials and run the same coolant (QualiChen Extreme Cut 250C). The only thing I can think is that it's the HAAS grease or the silicone caulk the Tech used to re-seal my housing since it leaked like crazy. The 2016 uses the purple grease where the 2020 uses the tan colored stuff. No caulking needed in the VF3

Anyone with a newer machine running the tan grease have this issue? I hear that HAAS is no longer selling the purple grease and it is replaced by the tan. Wondering if the VF3 will start gathering this residue once my purple supply is gone.

Thanks.

Changing belt on 2004 tm1

October 13, 2020, 6:44 am

≫ Next: Haas cmos battery replacement

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Is this something that can be done without having to call a tech? I understand spindle orient will need to be maintained, it seems this could be done same way as doing a timing belt, etc without having to change parameters. I've taken the head cover off once before, but at the time did not really look at what all needs to come off to get the belt replaced. any insight is appreciated.

Haas cmos battery replacement

October 13, 2020, 6:46 pm

≫ Next: Information about Haas Mini lathe

≪ Previous: Changing belt on 2004 tm1

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I have a TM1 in storage and bought a plug in battery replacement. Do I have to cut the solder on the old battery to open that circuit and allow the plug in battery to take over?
I really want to just plug in the new battery and call it good.
It will be in storage for about 6 months so I'm trying to avoid losing everything.

Information about Haas Mini lathe

October 14, 2020, 1:38 pm

≫ Next: Anyone have use a Haas Mini lathe?

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Hi everybody,I am about to buy and old Haas Mini lathe 2001. I have already one TL-1 and a TM-2 2007 they have been fantastic machines to whom and still run as new,I have a friend that work's as technician at Haas and he told me that this machine is a lemon, I am seeking for some ones that actually run this king of lathe for there opinions.should I buy it? Thank you.

Anyone have use a Haas Mini lathe?

October 15, 2020, 4:29 am

≫ Next: Upgrade TL-1 with a hydraulic chuck kit, Project Help...

≪ Previous: Information about Haas Mini lathe

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I would need advice I am about to buy one mini lathe. I have herd that it is not reliable. I have 2 already from 2007 a TM-2 and TL-1 and relay appreciate them. I need to know from Mini lathe owner if they are satisfy. Thank's

Upgrade TL-1 with a hydraulic chuck kit, Project Help...

October 15, 2020, 11:42 am

≫ Next: Phase Perfect and the Haas 30 hp spindle

≪ Previous: Anyone have use a Haas Mini lathe?

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I need an Haas expert! I have bought a brand new complete hydraulic Samchully 6 inch chuck kit.to fit the chuck, draw tube everything in the machine is quite straightforward, where I need help is to find the right wiring and the right pins on these to connect the solenoid and the pedal switch. I have found a schematic of a ST-20 Foot pedal inspection. On it there is a drawing of the hydraulic installation and electric diagram, it looks that the connection wires P55, P32, P31 are concerned, I really don't want to blow up the PCB Board! The foot pedal is the most critical to be found because there are 2 wires that connect together for the commande. Is there somebody that can help? Thank you.

Phase Perfect and the Haas 30 hp spindle

October 15, 2020, 3:28 pm

≫ Next: NO Safety switch TL-1 Turret

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I've seen a few threads where people had some issues with the 30 hp spindle with the phase perfect 20 hp. Who here has had success with their set-up? Sounds like the classic control works better because you can change the motor acceleration rates. Did this make a huge difference?

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NO Safety switch TL-1 Turret

October 16, 2020, 7:31 am

≫ Next: New Haas shipping wrap

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Hi I have a TL-1 2007 the 4 post was replaced for the latest servo model the other one didn't last long, The turret has no safety at all, if something stalls the tool to change (Chips mostly) the machine goes on smashing the side of the post on the chuck. Does somebody had the same problem? also for what I believe all other Haas lathe have a safety switch for the turret
I believe this device could be made quite easy on this TL-1 for safety. Basically need to find the 2 wire on the PCB card for adding a switch on the turret. Anybody can help make this?

New Haas shipping wrap

October 16, 2020, 1:45 pm

≫ Next: 2004 haas vf5 and renishaw probe

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Every video I’ve seen of a new haas delivery, the machine has like a layer of what almost looks like a Mylar shrink wrap or something like that, so I’m wondering if they only do it for certain clients or is it something that they don’t do anymore?

I ask because mine just has a thin clear plastic slip over cover that is just blowing in the wind and isn’t protecting much of anything.

2004 haas vf5 and renishaw probe

October 17, 2020, 5:42 am

≫ Next: I am looking for CL-1 Turret, 8 tool Parameters

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I am trying to use macros and a probe to detrermine how my part is loaded and decide which program to run. I am measuring in different spots to decide which part is in the machine. I am usind a g56 p9810 m01. To see if the probe touches something or not. The answer to the probe touch is supposed to be saved in #198. The #198 never changes so it always runs the same part. Does anyone have any ideas where it is accually saving??

G20 g17 g40 g80 g90
t30 m06 (probe)
g57 g90 g94
g43 h30
g0 x-1. Y3.5
z2.
G65 p9832
g65 p9810 z-.1 f120 m01
g0 z2.
If [#198 eq 0] goto 10 (1st op drilling program)
g0 x47.5625 y2.15
g65 p9810 z-.1 f120 m01
g0 z2.
If [#198 eq 7] goto 20 (2nd op drilling program)
g0 x47.5625 y2.15
g65 p9810 z-.1 f120 m01
g0 z2.
If [#198 eq 0] goto 30 (3nd op drilling program)

n10 m97 p100 (op1 subprogram)
goto n50
n20 m97 p200(op2 subprogram)
goto n50
n30 m97 p300 (op3 subprogram)
n50 m30

I am looking for CL-1 Turret, 8 tool Parameters

October 17, 2020, 1:16 pm

≫ Next: New 2020 haas vf4ss and phase perfect wiring question

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Hi,Unfortunately Someone change my parameters on my CL-1. A parameters I can't make the zero return! If somebody have a CL-1 with the standard 8 toots turret would it be possible to send me 2 pictures of the parameters 44 to 288 Axe A this would be extremely appreciated.

New 2020 haas vf4ss and phase perfect wiring question

October 18, 2020, 6:08 pm

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On a phase perfect, does the 3rd leg/generated leg correlate to t3 of the output terminals? I’ve got my conduit ran and wires pulled and wires connected but I’m not sure if I have the generated leg in the right terminal. Right now I have t3 of phase perfect to L2 of haas. I’m pretty sure I read on here that the generated leg should be in L2. Is that also correct?

Also Haas had the machine wired to the 244-260 taps but on the phase perfect display it reads between 237 to 242 on different days that I’ve watched it. All 3 would read pretty much the same but some days would be higher or lower is what I mean by that. Should the taps be connected to the next lowest down?

Am I suppose to power the machine and make sure the phases are correct before the tech comes out to activate?

Once this is cleared up I can get my HFO to come out and finish installing it.

I overkilled the wire size and it fought me good bending the wires in the disconnect. I have from the main power distribution box I have a 200 amp breaker feeding the shop through 50’ of 2/0, then from the shop panel a 100 amp breaker and 26’ of 1/0 feeding the phase perfect and then from there #3 to disconnect and then #3 to machine and that is about 22’ of wire. I hope that’s sufficient.

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